Travel

Seoul's autumn

Ah, Seoul in November - a city where autumn's palette seems to have bribed the trees into a dazzling display of reds and oranges.

Changdeokgung Secret Garden - Seoul, South Korea by Filip Gielda

Armed with my trusty film camera, I embarked on a five-day adventure, capturing moments that only film can truly immortalize. The delayed gratification of waiting for the negatives to return from the lab was akin to unwrapping a long-anticipated gift, each photo a nostalgic treasure.

Nestled in the heart of Seoul, Gwanghwamun served as our cosy base camp. This area is a delightful juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern, where skyscrapers play peekaboo with historic palaces. The vibrant streets, teeming with life, offered an endless array of photographic opportunities. Shout-out to Seri for recommending staying in this area.

Wandering through Changgyeonggung Palace felt like stepping into a living watercolour painting. The Palace is a gem in Seoul's crown that often plays second fiddle to its more famous siblings but deserves a standing ovation all its own. Originally built in the mid-15th century by King Sejong for his father, King Taejong, this palace has worn many hats: royal residence, zoo, botanical garden, and now, a serene escape in the heart of the city.

Changdeokgung - Seoul, South Korea by Filip Gielda

The ancient pines of Changgyeonggung Palace stand tall, their timeless grace framing centuries of Korean history.

Entering through Honghwamun, the main gate facing east, you're greeted by the Okcheongyo Bridge. This stone bridge, adorned with carved goblins (dokkaebi) intended to ward off evil spirits, has stood since 1483—a testament to the artisanship of the Joseon era.

Beyond the bridge lies Myeongjeongjeon, the oldest main hall among Seoul's palaces. Rebuilt in 1616 after the original was destroyed, this one-story structure may lack the grandeur of its two-story counterparts but exudes an intimate charm. Here, state affairs were conducted, and royal banquets held, under the watchful eyes of Confucian scholars whose portraits once adorned its walls.

Adjacent is Munjeongjeon, the council hall where kings deliberated on routine state matters. Its unique south-facing orientation, contrasting with the east-facing throne hall, is a rarity in Korean palace architecture. This hall bore silent witness to the tragic fate of Crown Prince Sado in 1762, adding a layer of poignant history to its wooden beams.

The Secret Garden - Nature's Masterpiece

The true pièce de résistance is the Secret Garden, or Huwon. Once a royal retreat, this expansive garden features pavilions, ponds, and meticulously landscaped greenery that, especially in autumn, transforms into a kaleidoscope of reds and oranges. It's as if Mother Nature herself decided to dabble in impressionist painting.

The timeless beauty of Changgyeonggung Palace's intricate doors, where every detail tells a story of royal elegance.

Changdeokgung – Seoul, South Korea by Filip Gielda-54

Adding to the palace's allure is the Daeonsil, or Grand Greenhouse. Constructed in 1909 during Emperor Sunjong's reign, this Victorian-style greenhouse is a delightful anachronism amidst traditional Korean architecture. Housing a variety of exotic plants, it offers a verdant escape, making you momentarily forget you're in the middle of a bustling metropolis.

Temple in Seoul, South Korea by Filip Gielda

Changdeokgung – Seoul, South Korea by Filip Gielda-51

Few Tips:

Film over digital - While digital photography offers instant gratification, shooting with film provides a depth and character that's unparalleled. The anticipation of developing the negatives adds to the adventure.
Explore Gwanghwamun - Staying in this central district offers easy access to Seoul's historical sites and modern attractions. Plus, the juxtaposition of old and new makes for compelling photography.
Visit Changgyeonggung Palace - Allocate ample time to explore both the palace and the Secret Garden. The serene environment is perfect for leisurely walks and thoughtful photography.
Savour seasonal fruits - Don't miss out on persimmons during their peak season. They're not only delicious but also make for vibrant, autumnal photographs.
Embrace the weather - November's mild temperatures are ideal for exploration. Dress in layers to stay comfortable throughout the day.

Changdeokgung – Seoul, South Korea by Filip Gielda-55

Changdeokgung – Seoul, South Korea by Filip Gielda-52

In conclusion, Changgyeonggung Palace is more than just a historical site; it's a journey through Korea's rich past, a canvas of natural beauty, and a testament to the resilience and adaptability of its people. Whether you're a history buff, a nature lover, or someone seeking a tranquil respite from the urban hustle, this palace promises an experience that lingers long after you've exited its ancient gates.

As for Jogyesa Temple, it's a serene Buddhist sanctuary nestled amidst Seoul's urban landscape, offering a peaceful retreat for contemplation and reflection.