Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25

At MKDT Studio, creative director Caroline Engelgaar delivered a collection that explored the theme of friction, both in materiality and construction. Set against the backdrop of Statens Museum for Kunst, the show unfolded with a quiet elegance, blending architectural tailoring with soft draping. Heavy melange wools clashed with sleek leathers, and structured suiting met fluid, oversized silhouettes. The contrast was intentional, speaking to the inherent tension in contemporary dressing - how a single look can balance strength and vulnerability, masculinity and femininity.

This season wasn’t just about the collections, but also about reconnecting with familiar faces, including Ilenia and Simon. Seeing them walk the runway, embodying the elegance and quiet strength of the collection, felt like a full-circle moment in a place where fashion is as much about community as it is about design. Adding to the atmosphere was the live piano performance by Clement, our incredibly talented young neighbour, whose music wove effortlessly into the movement of the models.

The scene shifted underground–literally–to the Forza Collective show, held in a raw, industrial carpark. Kristoffer Kongshaug continues to refine his vision of elevated everyday dressing, creating pieces that bridge the gap between effortless cool and precision tailoring. The Fall 2025 collection was all about bomber jackets with exaggerated proportions, sharply tailored wool coats, buttery leather trousers, and plush faux fur outerwear - pieces designed to be lived in, not just admired.

What makes Forza stand out is its commitment to real-world wearability. The silhouettes were bold but never overdone, the palette a thoughtful mix of deep neutrals with rich forest greens and burnt orange accents. Kongshaug’s process - listening to his customers, refining based on feedback, ensuring every garment earns its place in the wardrobe - was evident in how cohesive and desirable this collection felt.

Closing Wednesday was Henrik Vibskov, who transformed Theatre Republique into a surreal dreamscape inspired by his ongoing “Apollonian Circles” performance project. Vibskov has always existed at the intersection of fashion, art, and performance, and this show was no exception. Models wove through a set that echoed organic textures, geological formations, and oceanic elements, their garments almost dissolving into the abstract environment.

Vibskov’s signature oversized silhouettes, experimental fabric treatments, and layered textures created a collection that felt at once playful and deeply conceptual. Deep blues mimicked the ocean floor, sand-toned knits referenced shifting landscapes, and abstract prints suggested organic erosion - a reminder that fashion, like nature, is always in flux. More than just a runway show, the presentation felt like a living installation, where every movement and textile shift told a story beyond just clothing.