Fashion – MKDT Studio – Copenhagen

The Dark Light of Summer

MKDT Studio showed The Dark Light of Summer at Copenhagen Fashion Week this August – a Spring/Summer 2027 collection tracing the line between Vilhelm Hammershøi's hushed interiors and Kirsten Klein's Danish coastal landscapes. I photographed the show on film and hand-printed every frame in the darkroom before scanning it.

MKDT Studio SS27 at Copenhagen Fashion Week – fringed cape in motion, hand-printed film photograph

Caroline Engelgaar showed the collection outdoors, between flowerbeds and plane trees, the audience ringed around a gravel path. Her reference points were two Danish image-makers – Hammershøi's quiet interiors and Kirsten Klein's windblown coastal landscapes – and both were legible in the clothes: collarless blazers and softly built dresses in wool, linen, and hemp, cut long and loose so the fabric could move. Buttons ran down the spine of several looks, echoing the turned backs of Hammershøi's paintings, while blurred florals, fringe, and layered organza carried Klein's landscapes onto the garments. Some models walked with armfuls of wild grasses and flowers, as if they had come in from far outside the city.

MKDT Studio SS27 runway looks – feathered dress and dark tailoring with wildflowers
MKDT Studio SS27 runway looks – feathered dress and dark tailoring with wildflowers
MKDT Studio SS27 runway looks – relaxed dark suiting and white tailoring
MKDT Studio SS27 runway looks – relaxed dark suiting and white tailoring

The photographs were made the slow way: shot on film during the show, printed by hand in the darkroom, and scanned from the finished prints. The grain, the soft edges, and the small flaws are part of the picture, not something added afterwards – each frame passed through my hands twice before it reached this page.

MKDT Studio SS27 – tiered white dress in motion on the outdoor runway
MKDT Studio SS27 – tiered white dress in motion on the outdoor runway
MKDT Studio SS27 runway looks – black knit and layered white separates
MKDT Studio SS27 runway looks – black knit and layered white separates
MKDT Studio SS27 runway looks – bucket hat with wild grasses and white collar in profile
MKDT Studio SS27 runway looks – bucket hat with wild grasses and white collar in profile
A guest at the MKDT Studio SS27 show in Copenhagen
MKDT Studio – Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27 · Shot on film, hand-printed & scanned